FOR MORE UPCOMING LITTERS FOLLOW US ON FACE BOOK AT CASTILE CREEK KENNELS OR EMAIL US FOR CURRENT LITTERS AT

Lyle@castilecreekkennels.com

ALSO WE CAN EMAIL COMPLETE PEDIGREES ON ANY LITTER YOU REQUEST.

 LITTERS

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DUE: MARCH 22, 2012

COLOR: BLACK (PUPPIES EIC & CNM CLEAR)

SIRE: FC MERLYN IV

DAM: PHEASANT FLUSHER CRAVEN RAVEN SH (MASTER PASSES) NFC FC AFC FIVE STAR GENERAL PATTON & MITIMAX’S WINNING TICKET MGP MH)

OWNER: MIKE DUGGAN

PUPPIES RAISED AT CASTILE CREEK KENNELS

DUE: MARCH 26, 2012

COLOR: BLACK & CHOCOLATE (PUPPIES EIC & CNM CLEAR) (5 BLACK PUPPIES ALREADY SOLD WITH DEPOSITS)

DAM: SRS HRCH SURESHOT’S LITTLE LATIN LOVER MNH QAA “CHA” (EIC & CNM CLEAR) (NATIONAL DERBY LIST)

MASTER NATIONAL HALL OF FAME

FC AFC HIGH TECH CEO & AFC SURESHOT’S LITTLE PARTY GIRL

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DUE: MID APRIL 2012

COLOR: BLACK (PUPPIES EIC & CNM CLEAR)

SIRE: NAFC FC AFC CODY CUT A LEAN GRADE

DAM: ORION ROCK STAR MH “DIVA” LITERMATE TO 5 FC AFC

OWNER: TERRY CLAYCAMP: 785-623-1201

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DUE: MID APRIL 2012

COLOR: BLACK (ALL PUPPIES WILL BE TESTED)

SIRE: CODE RED (DECEASED IN EARLY 90’S)

DAM: GRINDSTONE MARIE LAVEAU (LITERMATE TO 7 FC AFC) (EIC & CNM CLEAR)

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DUE: APRIL 12, 2012

COLOR: BLACK (YELLOW FACTORED) (PUPPIES EIC & CNM CLEAR)

SIRE: FC MERLYN IV      

DAM: COW CREEK CHARILE MH “CHARLIE” (PASSED 2010 & 2011 MASTER NATIONAL) QUALIFIED FOR 2012 MASTER NATIONAL

OWNER: AL YOAK

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DUE: MARCH 29. 2012

COLOR: YELLOW (ALL PUPPIES WILL BE TESTED FOR EIC: WILL BE CLEAR OR CARRIERS)

SIRE: FC BLACKWATER’S LAST RESORT “FINN”

DAM: BLACKBIRD’S BLU-MOON MADNESS MH

PASSED 2011 AKC MASTER NATIONAL: QUALIFIED FOR 2012 MASTER NATIONAL

(FC AFC BADGER STATE RAM KICKER & BLACKWATCH FANCY GIRL)

OWNER: DEBBY & LYLE STEINMAN

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DUE: MARCH 25, 2012

COLOR: BLACK (PUPPIES EIC & CNM CLEAR)

SIRE: NAFC FC CODY CUT A LEAN GRADE “GRADY”

DAM: HIGHTEST TIERRA DEL FUEGO MH “TESS” (EIC/CNM CLEAR)

OWNER: FRANK MARX

PUPPIES RAISED AT CASTILE CREEK KENNELS

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BORN: FEBRUARY 3, 2012

COLOR: BLACK & CHOCOLATE (REPEAT BREEDING) (PUPPIES EIC & CNM CLEAR)

SIRE: FC AFC LAND AHOY “PIRATE” www.fcafclandahoy.com

DAM: CALYPSO MAYBE I’M AMAZED “BLACK” “MAZE” (EIC/CNM CLEAR) BLACK: DERBY WIN, Q JAMS, MASTER PASSES

OWNER: CASTILE CREEK KENNELS

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DUE: MID APRIL, 2012

COLOR: YELLOW (REPEAT BREEDING) (PUPPIES EIC & CNM CLEAR)

SIRE: FC AFC PIN OAKS TEXAS REX

DAM: BROOKDALES BAD TO THE BONE MH “JADE”

OWNER: FRANK MARX (903) 654-2127

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Puppy Care

You have just received a bright, new addition to your family, a CASTILE CREEK Labrador puppy. Here are a few pointers to help you care for your puppy and begin to teach him proper manners.

Your puppy has had his first set of vaccinations and a health exam given by our vet. Please consult your veterinarian for his advice on a vaccination program. We recommend that the pup have at least three boosters and a Rabies vaccine. You should also have the Bordetella vaccination done if you will be kenneling your dog.

Your puppy is currently on a diet of Country Vet Nutrition puppy food. Your puppy is being feed dry kernels and should not have water or canned food added. Fresh drinking water should be available. There are two choices for feeding schedules. The first is to free feed, making food available at all times. A puppy will not over eat and you can follow this method until 4 to 5 months of age. At that time set out his ration (4-6 cups depending on the size of the pup) and once it’s is gone do not refill until the next day. This method tends to keep the dog from becoming one that chokes his food back in a gulp. The second method is to give regular meals. At this time the puppy will require 3 meals per day early am, mid afternoon and evening. Give the puppy about 20 minutes to eat as much as wants. Make sure to increase the amount as he grows. By 4 months you can cut back to 2 meals a day until about 8 months at which time once a day is fine.

You can keep your puppy on the puppy food until about 6 months. At this age the bones of the puppy really grow. In order to help prevent bone and joint problems it is important that this growth period take it’s time. We recommend that you switch his diet to a large breed puppy food. The puppy will still attain his full size but it will give the rest of him a chance to keep up. Once your puppy has reached his full height at about 10-12 months you can start feeding a complete adult diet. It is extremely important that you do not allow your puppy to become overweight.

House training and crate training go hand in hand. Your puppy should learn to sleep in his crate through the night and during daytime naps. Make sure the puppy has done all of his business before bedtime. He should be able to sleep through most of the night. If he wakes at 1 AM you should probably leave him alone, if he messes it can always be cleaned up in the morning. If he starts crying at 5 AM you should take this call seriously and take the puppy outside. If you start getting up at 1 AM it will become a habit for the pup. The pup will probably cry for a while the first few nights but be patient and PLUG your ears. We found the best thing was to cover the crate with a blanket so he feels more secure and to play the radio. It will get better, honestly. Puppies do not want to mess in their bed so if you start with a large crate it is best to block off part of it so they can’t mess in one end and sleep in the other. When you put the puppy outside to the bathroom you MUST go outside with him. The first reason is in order to praise the pup when he goes; the second is that if he’s out by himself he’ll just want back in with you. Instead of doing his business outside he’ll be at the door crying and when you let him in he’ll remember that he had to go and have an accident.

After his initial trip outside the puppy will want to eat and play. Another trip outside would be appropriate about every 20-30 minutes during his wake period. You will soon learn the signals of a puppy that needs to go and it won’t need to be so often. When the puppy starts to get drowsy put him back in the crate for a nap and start the process all over. At this point it seems like a lot of work but it will be worth it and it’s a lot easier than the old paper method. You will notice that the puppy will go into his crate himself when he’s sleepy before too long.

DO NOT PLAY TUG OF WAR. This is the worst game ever invented to play with a dog. It teaches the animal to struggle against you and that there must be a winner. Labs love to retrieve so play fetch games. A training bumper, tennis ball or old socks are best. Teach your pup to give instead of trying to pull it away. If he doesn’t want to bring it back try running away or hiding but DO NOT chase him. If you start to chase it becomes a game and teaching the pup to COME becomes impossible.

We recommend that between 10 and 12 weeks you have the puppy wear his nylon collar and drag a 6-foot leash wherever he goes. This way when you call him and he turns to scoot the other way you can stomp on the leash and get him back to you. By doing this exercise at this age you will teach the pup respect and the beginnings of coming when he’s called. You cannot do this exercise at a later age because they quickly figure out when the leash is on. You will never be able to have the same effect with this lesson as you will now. Be sure to take the leash off when the pup is in the crate or when the pup is not being supervised.