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FOR MORE UPCOMING LITTERS FOLLOW US ON FACE BOOK AT
CASTILE CREEK KENNELS OR EMAIL US FOR CURRENT LITTERS AT
Lyle@castilecreekkennels.com ALSO WE CAN EMAIL COMPLETE PEDIGREES ON ANY LITTER YOU
REQUEST.
LITTERS
BORN: MAY 25, 2013
COLOR: BLACK 1 FEMALE AND 2 MALES
SIRE: FC AFC WESTWOODS SUNDAY SILENCE (BUCK)
2 Open Wins in 2008. 2008 National Open FinalistFull Sibling to:
AFC Pepper, FC-AFC Missy, and FC Gauge.
dAM: CASTILE CREEKS PRIME TIME KARMA RAE (KARMA)
OWNER: TONY AND KERRI PETTIJOHN
LITTER RAISED AT CASTILE CREEK KENNELS
PRICE: $1000.00
FOR MORE INFO ON KARMA (PERSONALITY,
HUNTING BACKGROUND, AND SUCH) CALL TONY
AT 816-752-0033
FOR INFO ON THE PUPPIES AND THE STUD, PLEASE CONTACT LYLE AT
816-522-9650
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DUE: JUNE 7, 2013
COLOR: BLACK
SIRE: 2 X SRS HRCH TAYLORLAB DOWNTOWN COOTER BROWN MNH5
MH QAA
DAM: CASTILE CREEK TEXAS TINY (FC MERLYN & GRINDSTONE
MARIE LAVEAU) (SIBLING & LITTERMATE TO 5 QAA & 5 MH QAA) DOB
9/18/2008
Price $900.00
OWNER: CASTILE CREEK KENNELS
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DUE: JUNE 10, 2013
COLOR: CHOCOLATE AND
BLACK
SIRE:
DAM: GRINDSTONE TEKE BUTTI
OWNER: CASTILE CREEK KENNELS
PRICE: $900.00
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UE: JUNE 12, 2013
COLOR: BLACK
SIRE: FC AFC WESTWOODS SUNDAY SILENCE (BUCK) 2
Open Wins in 2008. 2008 National Open Finalist Full Sibling to:
AFC Pepper, FC-AFC Missy, and FC Gauge.
DAM: BIG HEARTED HANNAH (OFFSPRING OF FC AFC
CREEK ROBBER) DOB 8/4/2010
OWNER: CASTILE CREEK KENNELS
PRICE: $900.00
WE ARE TAKING DEPSOITS ON ANY OF THESE UPCOMING LITTERS. A $ 500
DEPSOIT WILL INSURE YOUR ORDER OF PICK.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO GET YOUR PUPPY STARTED ON THE RIGHT TRACK
TO SUCCESS. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THIS TRAINING DVD FOR ALL PUPPIES.
“TRAINING A RETRIEVER PUPPY” WITH BILL HILLMAN. www.hawkeyemedia.net
PLEASE READ
PUPPY PRICES ARE DETERMINED BY THE ACCOMPLISHEMENTS OF THERE PARENTS
& GRANPARENTS (TITLES: HUNT TEST/FIELD TRIALS/SUPER RETRIEVER SERIES).
Click here to view our Puppy Guarantee
Click here to
view our Purchase Contract
Puppy Care
You have just received a bright, new addition to your family,
a CASTILE CREEK Labrador puppy. Here are a few pointers to help
you care for your puppy and begin to teach him proper manners.
Your puppy has had his first set of vaccinations and a health
exam given by our vet. Please consult your veterinarian for his
advice on a vaccination program. We recommend that the pup have
at least three boosters and a Rabies vaccine. You should also
have the Bordetella vaccination done if you will be kenneling
your dog.
Your puppy is currently on a diet
of Country Vet
Nutrition puppy
food. Your puppy is being feed dry kernels and should not have
water or canned food added. Fresh drinking water should be
available. There are two choices for feeding schedules. The
first is to free feed, making food available at all times. A
puppy will not over eat and you can follow this method until 4
to 5 months of age. At that time set out his ration (4-6 cups
depending on the size of the pup) and once it’s is gone do not
refill until the next day. This method tends to keep the dog
from becoming one that chokes his food back in a gulp. The
second method is to give regular meals. At this time the puppy
will require 3 meals per day early am, mid afternoon and
evening. Give the puppy about 20 minutes to eat as much as
wants. Make sure to increase the amount as he grows. By 4 months
you can cut back to 2 meals a day until about 8 months at which
time once a day is fine.
You can keep your puppy on the puppy food until about 6
months. At this age the bones of the puppy really grow. In order
to help prevent bone and joint problems it is important that
this growth period take it’s time. We recommend that you switch
his diet to a large breed puppy food. The puppy will still
attain his full size but it will give the rest of him a chance
to keep up. Once your puppy has reached his full height at about
10-12 months you can start feeding a complete adult diet. It is
extremely important that you do not allow your puppy to become
overweight.
House training and crate training go hand in hand. Your puppy
should learn to sleep in his crate through the night and during
daytime naps. Make sure the puppy has done all of his business
before bedtime. He should be able to sleep through most of the
night. If he wakes at 1 AM you should probably leave him alone,
if he messes it can always be cleaned up in the morning. If he
starts crying at 5 AM you should take this call seriously and
take the puppy outside. If you start getting up at 1 AM it will
become a habit for the pup. The pup will probably cry for a
while the first few nights but be patient and PLUG your ears. We
found the best thing was to cover the crate with a blanket so he
feels more secure and to play the radio. It will get better,
honestly. Puppies do not want to mess in their bed so if you
start with a large crate it is best to block off part of it so
they can’t mess in one end and sleep in the other. When you put
the puppy outside to the bathroom you MUST go outside with him.
The first reason is in order to praise the pup when he goes; the
second is that if he’s out by himself he’ll just want back in
with you. Instead of doing his business outside he’ll be at the
door crying and when you let him in he’ll remember that he had
to go and have an accident.
After his initial trip outside the puppy will want to eat and
play. Another trip outside would be appropriate about every
20-30 minutes during his wake period. You will soon learn the
signals of a puppy that needs to go and it won’t need to be so
often. When the puppy starts to get drowsy put him back in the
crate for a nap and start the process all over. At this point it
seems like a lot of work but it will be worth it and it’s a lot
easier than the old paper method. You will notice that the puppy
will go into his crate himself when he’s sleepy before too long.
DO NOT PLAY TUG OF WAR. This is the worst game ever invented
to play with a dog. It teaches the animal to struggle against
you and that there must be a winner. Labs love to retrieve so
play fetch games. A training bumper, tennis ball or old socks
are best. Teach your pup to give instead of trying to pull it
away. If he doesn’t want to bring it back try running away or
hiding but DO NOT chase him. If you start to chase it becomes a
game and teaching the pup to COME becomes impossible.
We recommend
that between 10 and 12 weeks you have the puppy wear his nylon
collar and drag a 6-foot leash wherever he goes. This way when
you call him and he turns to scoot the other way you can stomp
on the leash and get him back to you. By doing this exercise at
this age you will teach the pup respect and the beginnings of
coming when he’s called. You cannot do this exercise at a later
age because they quickly figure out when the leash is on. You
will never be able to have the same effect with this lesson as
you will now. Be sure to take the leash off when the pup is in
the crate or when the pup is not being supervised.
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